¡Cuba!

What a country! I flew across the Atlantic Ocean reeling from the effects of completing everything and preparing all for the impending 15 months or so in Latino América having decided that, despite the need for more time, a sojourn in Cuba would be worth whatever stress it took to leave a week early, and I dropped down in La Habana and boy was it worth it! Cuba is fascinating. It is truly unique, of course, due to its political situation, but you don´t know what to expect until you arrive. Cuban people are great. So friendly and welcoming, interesting and educated. Wherever you go you are bound to meet someone who is genuinely interested in you, what you are doing, where you are from and will reciprocate in kind.

I arrived with a few numbers jotted down of friends or family of Cuban friends or lovers of Cuba back home, so I called them all and as a result, did not really have a ´tourist´experience. I went to dinner with a party of French Canadian artists, hosting by the fanastic Sandra, a talented artist succeeding against such odds. We may think it´s hard enough to live as artists in Europe, but Cuban artists not only get no support from any councils or government, they can only sell their work abroad as the market in Cuba is really too small to support them and then they have to struggle to get permission to leave their country in order to do an exhibition or residency. Alejandro, an extremely talented percussionist, had his jazz trio selected for a tour in Denmark; everything was set, the venues booked, the visas accepted and processed, when the authorities told him that one document was missing and the band lost the tour.

Cuba is music. The most fun, energetic, thrilling music and of course dance. The dancing has to be seen to be believed in Cuba. I stayed with Alain´s family and his little six year old sister Valeriana showed me some moves for La Rueda, possibly the most beautiful Cuban dance, which is danced by partners grouped in a circle, with the men passing the girls around the circle in response to the calls made by the leader. When it is done well, it is gorgeously harmonious. I think I may have to return to master those moves (there are so many!). I went to see several of the biggest salsa bands in Cuba performing live: NG La Banda, La Charangua Havanera, Los Van Van and more. On my last night we went to see Van Van at La Casa de la Musica, who played for hours. At about 2am, they invited a selection of girls up on to the stage and ecouraged them to strutt their stuff. Madre mia, ¡que caliente! As far as I can tell, every single Cuban has mastered a move that involves grinding the pelvis up and down at a speed which would shame a hummingbird. Then they grab a partner and grind into each others´ pelvises, the girl´s back to the man. I was invited to try this move and I am sorry, but (apart from the fact that I absolutely cannot do it) my British sense of decency, even with my love for all things latino, let me down on that one. But then I guess it depends on which guy is asking!!

I got to the beach - Varadero for one paltry night only, as I had a concert date to get back to Havana for. However even one day was worth it. I don´t believe I have ever seen such emerald turquoise water. The heat - ah bliss, the white sand underfoot and I just love the fact that everything slows down when you arrive at the sea ( in a tropical or at least warm environment, that is. Now that I think about it, things don´t slow down that much at the British seaside. Although other lovely thoughts like the feeling of a sandy floor and a whistling kettle in my grandmother´s Devonshire beach hut come to mind...!) On the way back from the beach we stopped for the best piña colada I have ever had, made with fresh coconut milk and freshly juiced pineapple. Then back to a concert by Manolito (who treated us to a live rendition of ´En la calle, (a fuera de mi casa´), for those salsa dancers out there!). That concert took place at the top of the Havana Libre hotel, one of the biggest in Havana, on the top floor with stupendous nighttime views across Havana and when the concert began, the roof opened, and we were dancing under the stars...