Things about Guatemala that I could do without…

Chicken buses: crammed to overflowing and then double it (imagine the inhuman way animals are transported and you`re nearly there). It`s a marvel to see a bus, designed for children, three adults crammed to each seat for two, and then one more squashed across the aisle, suspended in position by the bodies to either side, and then more standing passengers manage to find a toe-hold in an non-existent space, people hanging out of the doors at front and back, the roof cargoed to the max with life`s necessities and of course the odd hessian sack vibrating with high-pitched chirps (the reason chicken buses are so called). And between all this, the conductor manages to squeeze, squirm and bend his way from one end of the bus to the other, collecting fares. Ear splitting music is the norm, be it marimba, techno, meringue, disco or latin rock. Actually the music is sometimes the only saving grace, alleviating the monotony of many hours being chucked all over the place, squashed in from all sides, being assaulted by all manner of unwelcome odours and worse; gripping on to strategically (and v. necessarily) placed bars for dear life, wondering if this will be my last trip on this planet due to the daredevil antics of the driver… Yes, it is an experience that must be had, but once is enough; and knowing that I have survived 8 months regularly fulfilling this essential aspect of being volunteer in Guatemala and that I only have one month left makes me happy!
Fleas.
Well they are never popular, are they? But even after developing such an intimate relationship as I have, I can vouch they are definitely not my best friends. In fact more like the devil incarnate. They are such tencious wee beasties, nothing I can find in Guatemala will kill the cretins!
Toilets.
I have had it with the extremely questionable sanitary standards in this country. Give me a decent, clean, properly functioning toilet that one can even flush paper down and I will repent all of my sins.
Showers.
Why is it that decent shower technology seems to have skipped Guatemala? Or has it just not reached here yet? The ubiquitous electrical Guatemalan shower boasts dodgy wiring threatening a potential electric shock if one`s head touches the shower head (that means anyone over 5`5”), and the necessity of diminishing the flow of water to the pathetic drizzle to make it hotter, but wait! If you turn it down too far the electricity switches off! I know proper showers can exist here, because once in a while I come across one, for example one of the main attractions of a swish hotel in Antigua which occasionally lures me for a swim in its delicious acclimatized pool are actually the showers…boy do we appreciate what we normally take for granted when we don`t have it. Those showers are heaven.
Rain.
I know now that we Brits are absolutely unjustified in complaining about the rain
(with the sole exception of Glaswegians, who really do have to put up with pants for weather!). Come to Guatemala and revoke that moaning attitude.
Rubbish.
My next project with the library aims to stimulate awareness of this country`s huge problem with rubbish disposal and to provoke a reaction to take the matter in hand. Guatemala boasts one of the most luscious, spectacular landscapes I have ever seen, yet it is literally trashed on a daily basis by all of its inhabitants. I imagine that the readiness with which rubbish is dropped everywhere stems from a past culture when everything biodegraded, leaving no trace, however this does not excuse the current situation. It does not take long to understand that manmade materials such as plastic do not disappear, so then one should alter one`s actions accordingly. It is partly a question of indolence on behalf of the government, who are totally failing to take this matter on board and instigate a campaign towards cleaning up the country. The populace are no less guilty, who agree about how disgraceful the problem is while simultaneously chucking empty food containers out of the bus window!
Violence.
Very unfortunately, robberies, assaults and assassinations are extremely commonplace in this country, as the papers gleefully inform us daily, with disgusting photographs showing grieving relatives at the scene of the crime and far-too-meticulous diagrams showing each stage of the incident. No compassion is displayed in these grotesque reportages. Guatemala has the highest rate of femicide in the world, a horrifying and shocking reputation which is increasing annually. With unemotional frequency, the daily papers broadcast the latest statistics of how many women have been killed in the last month, since the beginning of the year, over the last five years. However, the papers also reveal that statistically more men are assassinated here than women. The governing authorities are helplessly corrupt, with policemen often implicated as the perpetrators of the crime, but of course no action is taken against them. Many politicians genuinely attempting to do good work are assassinated. One such example of this occurred in my village a few months ago. I saw the rescue dispatch screeching past my window one morning while breakfasting.
Male Chauvinism.
The classic Latin trait. It`s alive and kicking all right. It`s a snare endorsed by the culture that women are caught in, regardless of their social situation. Even those who are embracing modern society, e.g. successful career women, have an even harder life because in addition to their exhausting work schedules they still manage everything domestic and with latin standards of order and hygiene this makes for a great deal of housework!
Guatemalan cuisine.
The staple diet of all Guatemala is a meal consisting of the following: tortillas (corn patties made from milled maize paste patted into shape by millions of female hands every day and toasted on a lime-covered stove fuelled by a log fire), frijoles (black beans), which may be whole or refried (mashed to a pulp and fried). Frijoles are actually delicious. These staples are accompanied by eggs, fresh cheese (very salty) or sour cream and picante (hot sauce). This meals constitutes both breakfast and dinner in Guatemala and is actually what I consider to be the best typical food on offer, leaving the only diversity at lunchtime. Being not a huge fan of meat, my enthusiasm has dwindled even further after countless servings of dry, overcooked meat on the bone, a hunk of chicken containing more bones than flesh swimming in an oversalty gloopy sauce accompanied by over boiled veggies and tortillas. Vegetarianism is calling me loud and clear.
Money.
The idea of a fistful of crisp, freshly minted tenners delivered into my palm has never seemed so inviting after months of handling grubby, tattered, limp fragments of time-worn relics from the ark which frankly disgust!